A journey across the dazzling Kenyan skies

Seeing Kenya from above is an experience very close to my heart. My great-grandfather was a bush pilot, who in family-lore inspired the character of Compton in Ernest Hemingway’s 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro'. My grandfather was also a pilot for Wilson Airways, based at the airport I regularly fly out of in Nairobi. Flying and adventure is very much in the Swynnerton blood.

Our adventure in the skies starts just before the sun rises at 05:00. I slip into the cool morning air. The sky shimmers with stars as I sip my morning coffee, ready for a day of hot-air ballooning across the Mara. I warm myself by the fire, getting ready for lift-off.

David and I cross the Mara River by boat, mist curling around us, and reach the launch site of Governors’ Balloon Safaris. The company has been flying over the Mara since 1978, and as several other companies now offer similar experiences, spotting hot-air balloons drifting across the dawn sky has become an iconic part of any early morning game drive. Even though I’ve made several balloon flights across Africa, the anticipation of our ride electrifies the air with a unique kind of magic — because every balloon ride is different.

As the sun creeps over the horizon, we rise into the sky, our captain, Pepe from Spain, at the helm. Below us, elephants amble through golden grass, hyenas slink through the mist, and giraffes move through the trees. Getting to soar above it all, seeing the vast expanse of the Mara and the wildlife below from a bird’s-eye view, leaves a lasting impression and fills me with a deep sense of gratitude for the beauty and privilege of it all. This particular balloon ride is exceptional, as it takes you just above the Mara River, with the Mara Escarpment to your right. You drift over rivers, forests, and vast plains, making the experience truly exceptional and unforgettable.

As if all this weren’t enough, a champagne breakfast, perched on a ridge overlooking the endless spotted plains, awaits us on arrival. Just as we begin our descent, my 08:45 alarm goes off — a daily reminder I’ve kept for years. It’s my quiet nod to all the early mornings I could’ve stayed in bed but didn’t… because otherwise, I’d have missed moments like this: floating above the Mara in a hot-air balloon, watching the world awake from the sky.

A couple of days later on our trip, travelling from the scrubs of Samburuland, we take a short flight to Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. Towering giraffes watch as we land on the small landing strip. We join the 09:00am milk feed —15 heart-stirring minutes of bonding and trust between elephant orphans and their devoted caretakers. Reteti is the world’s first indigenous, community-owned elephant sanctuary in Africa, dedicated to rescuing and releasing orphaned elephants back into the wild. Home to 14 young elephants, Reteti provides a safe haven for animals rescued after separation from their herds, poaching, drought, or accidents—like falling into man-made wells. Dorothy Lowakutuk, a keeper at Reteti since its inception, guides us through the sanctuary’s rhythm — milk feeds, mud baths, and quiet moments of restoration. It’s a powerful example of local conservation in action, where people and wildlife thrive together.

Back at the plane, we sit on its tail wing to enjoy a quick bite, then it's up into the skies once more. As we descend into Lewa, elephants and zebras greet us on the runway.

Charlie, an old friend, greets us with his dog, Polie, and drives us up in his truck to Rutundu — a remote retreat perched on the craggy northeastern slopes of Mount Kenya. Rutundu’s log cabins were originally built 32 years ago as off-grid hideaways nearly unreachable by car. Today, this is a beloved destination for anglers, hikers, and adventurers seeking solitude and spectacular mountain landscapes.

Our luggage is ferried across a ravine via a pulley system as we hike through alpine meadows. The setting could be the Scottish Highlands — crisp, bracing, and timeless. At 3,000m on Mount Kenya, the landscape shifts to heathland, with hardy shrubs like erica as well as wildflowers and moss-covered rocks. At this altitude, the air is thinner and the flora is tough, thriving in the rugged environment. That afternoon, I try fly fishing on the mountain lake. Dinner is hearty chicken pie by a roaring fire. I sleep like a stone.

A new day dawns on Mount Kenya beneath a flawless blue sky. Today, we are leaving for Nairobi, with a few stops along the way. During the journey, we spot everything from alpine chat songbirds and scarlet-tufted sunbirds to an endemic Mount Kenya chameleon.

As Rutundu is entirely off-grid, our journey becomes an expedition in itself. At Vitu Too’s Outpost, we ask around for a lift. A helpful tailor from a nearby shop steps up, driving us to Nanyuki (40km away) in a tiny car overflowing with bags.

In Nanyuki, a town perched on the Equator at the base of Mount Kenya, we meet John, a kind soul who offers to drive us all the way to Nairobi (don’t worry, most camps will organise your travel connections, so you don’t need to rely on the kindness of strangers). But first, a final detour: horseback riding in the foothills of Mount Kenya at the magical Mount Kenya Farm.

We saddle up and ride out into the open, until a downpour catches us mid-trot. Soaked and laughing, we have time to share a quick cup of tea before heading back to the city. It’s a perfect end to a great adventure.

How to get there:

Daily flights into Nanyuki (closest airport to Mount Kenya) or a four-hour drive from Nairobi.

Other sky-high activities:

Climb Mount Kenya (Africa’s second-highest peak and Unesco World Heritage site), abseiling on Mount Kenya, scenic flights with Air Wilderness, helicopter tours over Mt. Kenya, Northern Kenya and Suguta Valley by Tropic Air, tandem skydive in Diani by Go Jump Kenya, hot air balloon experience in Amboseli and Mara, paragliding in Kijabe.

NB: Always ensure you’re travelling responsibly and safely. Use reputable tour companies and safaris booked well in advance and don’t hang out of the plane!